Non Solo Pane, Altamura

Altamooooooooorah, as it is locally called, is 600 metres above sea-level, with roads of modern tower blocks trickling down the hill from the beautiful walled historical centre. It's wintry compared to Lecce. The streets are shiny with drizzle and I am forced to walk very slowly because the stone is so slippy and sloped. It feels very christmassy here, there are beautiful hams hung in the window of the Salumeria, wrapped in red paper like bouquets. Their exposed bone is gilded. Food is a celebration.

In Italy, shops can be serve a very specific purpose. In fact, Italian law makes it hard to sell too many different things under one roof - If the range is daringly varied, however, the shop might be called "Not Only...", Non Solo....

In this Non Solo Pane, you could buy pizza by the metre, pies and sandwiches. I like the way that it's necessary to warn customers that they'll find more to tempt them than they might expect.